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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.